Saturday, July 4, 2009

A Howlin' Good Time in Golden & Today we have WEATHER!

Saturday July 4, 2009

Yet another somewhat late start to the day. We got up at 7am local time, of course, we were still up at midnight the night before watching some coverage of Day 1 of the Calgary Stampede until we couldn’t keep our eyes open any longer.

We had a light breakfast of cereal, toast, fruit, coffee, juice and milk. Aunt Helen is lactose intolerant and had bought milk for us to have so we each had a glass to finish up what was there so it didn’t go to waste.

At 9am we left to go to the Northern Lights Wildlife Wolf Centre just outside of Golden heading towards Revelstoke.

The Centre has 4 resident wolves in a 2 acre enclosure, but the wolves are taken out daily to run in a large field 10 km away from the centre. This is where they allow photographers to walk with the wolves without fences (for a price, of course!). We debated doing that, but time, and funds, did not allow us to. We listened to the educational talks about both the wolves and bear conservation and relocation with the use of Karilean Bear Dogs – the centre has several of those as well. I believe that their dogs come from Dawne Deeley, who is a breeder in BC of Karilans.


While we were there, the wolves got into howling for a few minutes which was pretty cool to see and hear as I’ve never seen or heard that in person before.

We’re driving through Kicking Horse Canyon as I type this and looking at the sheer cliffs all around us with rock fall nets, stone parging and anchor ties in the rock – all an effort to hold back the rock from careening down on to the cars passing through here.

We left the wolf centre and had some time before we were due back at Aunt Helen’s for lunch, so we headed back towards Invermere to Parson through the stretch where we had previously seen so many osprey in our prior trip through on the 1st. There were plenty again today, but when they are up on the platforms in the nests, it is difficult to see much more than the bird’s head as is scolds you from above for being too close.

One of the nests had at least two fairly large chicks in it that were being fed by one of the parents, but once we stopped and got out of the car, the adult bird’s warnings to us were enough to get the chicks hunkered down in the next out of sight.



We also stopped near a roadside marsh where I spotted an old, and hopefully long abandoned, small house slowly sinking into the marsh so I could take a couple of photos of it.



At 12:30pm, we made our way back to Aunt Helen’s and actually ended up following her through town for a bit – she had gone out to pick up cold meats and buns for lunch. Lunch was out on her back deck in the sun listening to nature around us and more pleasant chatter – Aunt Helen tells some really great stories and knows a lot about the area and the people in and around Golden.

After lunch, we took a quick trip over to the Golden Museum, which was actually closed for renovations, but it just so happened that Aunt Helen is on the historical society and was able to get us in. Even though many of the exhibits were put away to protect them during the construction of a new ceiling and painting in the main building, there were still many interesting things to see. Many of the larger farm implements had been donated to the museum by my Aunt and Uncle from their farm in Spillimacheen. She also said there were a few things, like a thrashing machine, that had to be left behind when they moved from the farm. It needed tires and Uncle Vern had passed away and Aunt Helen couldn’t get the help she needed to get it ready to move before she needed to move off the farm herself, so it got left behind and is still there. Hopefully, someone somewhere down the road is able to donate it somewhere where it will be appreciated and visited as a piece of local history.


The museum is also now home to a recently reconstructed one room school house originally from Briscoe and the local original train station, which although currently in a state of great disrepair, they are hoping to restore to it’s former glory and house more museum displays.

After the museum, we took Aunt Helen back to her house and reluctantly said our goodbyes.


We are currently on our way to Kootenay National Park right now to see the half of the park that we weren’t able to see on the 1st, after which we will head for Canmore for the night. Our trip is winding down – we are scheduled to fly out in two days and head back to life and reality.

At 4pm, we stopped in Field in Kootenay National Park to get another Park Pass for today and tomorrow and we were on our way into Banff National Park, which we entered shortly after crossing into Alberta around 4:30pm. At 4:45 we stopped at Corbett Creek for a quick photo opportunity.



We are taking the Bow Valley Parkway on this trip, which is a less heavily travelled route by cars, but with more potential for wildlife sightings. The speed limit here is only 60km/hr, whereas on the Trans Canada highway, the speed limit is 110 km/hr, so the going is slower, but we aren’t in a hurry today, as long as we get to Canmore by 7pm or so we’re happy and we’re just going to settle in for the night once we do get there, so taking the “scenic route” this afternoon is perfect and will take us by all of the same stops we wanted to make today just as well as the Trans Canada would have.

There are train tracks everywhere here – even places where you would think it would be impossible to lay track, but I guess, where there’s a will, there’s a way and a hundred some years ago when a way through the rockies was needed, people found a way – whether it was by blasting or building – we have seen some amazing tunnels and astonishing bridges in our travels here in the last week or so.

Aunt Helen was saying earlier today that she heard there is a forest fire on the BC coast today and it seems that some of the smoke from that is coming into Alberta as the air is very hazy here today. We have been incredibly fortunate on our trip thus far having nothing but sunny blue skies and comfortable temperatures the whole trip. My mom, on the other hand, who is house/dog/cat sitting for us back home, is waterlogged at best as it’s been raining steady there since we left with some pretty scary storms, I hear. I have been getting daily emails from her with reports on how things are going at home, up until yesterday when there was no email. A little concerned, I sent her an email asking if everything was all right or if perhaps she’d built and ark and sailed off with the animals in search of higher ground?!

I believe she has been totally smitten by our recently adopted foster failure, Toby, and really, I can’t say I’m surprised. Anyone who spends any length of time with him falls head over heels in love with him.

I’m anxious to get home, not for home itself, but to see my parents and the animals. I miss my Simon snuggles before bed every night and the dogs being happy we’re home – whether we’ve been gone for 2 weeks or 2 minutes – they are still equally overjoyed to see us come back through the door! Ah, it’s so nice to be missed!

Still on the road in Kootenay National Park, it`s now about 7pm and we`ve just left Numa Falls.



So far on our drives through the various parks, we`ve only seen one dead animal – a deer – on the side of the road, but we have certainly seen signs of lots of animal/vehicle collisions which by then are just large red stains on the highway… L I understand that they are very quick to remove road kill to prevent further collisions between vehicles and any scavenging animals that may come to feed on the carcass.

Back around 4:30, we were on the boundary of Alberta and B.C., which is also the boundary between Banff and Kootenay Parks AND the continental divide – where water on one side flows to the Pacific and water from the other side flows to the Atlantic. We took photos of each of us standing half in one province and half in the other. J We were also at that time in the vicinity of Storm Mountain – aptly named I might add, as we were experiencing our first real rain of the whole trip. By the time we stopped at our next destination, Marble Canyon, it was really raining and thundering. Darryl donned whatever gear he had to protect himself and the camera from the rain and trekked into Marble Canyon and once again it seems to have been worth the trouble as he got some great photos.

A little more about Storm Mountain – according to the sign at the viewing platform at it`s base, Storm Mountain is so large and so sheer in height, that it creates its own microclimate. Fog from the morning rises up the steep cliffs of the mountain with the heat of the day and forms denser and denser clouds at the summit which in turn creates rain storms late each DAY, regardless of the surrounding weather in the area. While we were there, there was blue sky and white fluffy clouds all around, but above Storm Mountain, there were dark grey circling clouds and heavy rains.


At 7pm we stopped at Numa Falls, which although small, was very impressive with large, smooth ``bowls`` carved out of the sides of the stone walls on either side of the river by the sheer power of the water over time.

At 7:30pm, we stopped at the Kootenay Park Lodge store, which was supposed to be open until 8, however, the proprietor walked up and locked the door in front of me just as I was about to step into the store. Now, in a time when businesses are hurting for paying customers, does that kind of behaviour make sense? I didn’t think so either, and I’m seriously considering contacting them about it when I get home. They closed half an hour earlier than their posted closing time when there were several customers in the parking lot. Darryl and I and another family in a van were making our way to the store when he locked the door and flipped the sign to closed. He was even nice enough to smile at me while he did it. Prick.

We’re nearly now to Kootenay Crossing where we will turn around and head for Canmore.

"Mobile blogging" :)

7:45pm Darryl wins the eagle eye spotting award for the day for spotting a small herd of elk laying off the side of the highway. We stopped and took several photos and were delighted when one of the elk got up and began grazing and walked in our direction. We took photos for about 15 minutes of the very co-operative elk, all were either female or it’s too early in the season for them to have antlers yet? While we were sitting there on the side of the road happily shooting away, a vole or perhaps a shrew ran across the road right beside Darryl.




Poltergeist elk! Actually had been resting for a long time so was just having a good stretch before getting up. This is the same elk moments later below.


At 8:12pm, we finally reached Kootenay Crossing which marked the point where we had come to from the other direction and tuned around the last time we were at the park, so we turned around and are now heading back to get on the main highway and get to Canmore. We are very behind schedule and I have a lot I want to accomplish tonite so I think sadly it will be yet another late night for me. Tomorrow should be an easy day as we make our way in to Calgary for our last night here.


"Weather" in Kootenay!

A rockey mountain rainbow on the way into Canmore.

An animal overpass - there are many over, and under, passes specifically for animals to cross the trans Canada highway safely.


8:20pm Darryl does it again spotting another elk grazing right along side the road (I was typing on the laptop, or I might have seen that one first!). This one was not at all concerned about the car and continued grazing as we inched up along side of it allowing me to get an excellent close up of its face when it stopped to look at us.


I would love to take a video in here of all the birds you hear whenever you stop and get out of the car – only problem is the traffic whizzing by every minute or so. I did make a sound memo about 30 seconds long of birds signing at one of the stops – I hope it works out and people are able to hear it. Will know more when I set up my equipment at the hotel later and download today’s photos.

If Darryl's forte today was elk spotting, mine was deer spotting. Here are a couple that we saw on the way out of the park in the late evening light.



We arrived at the hotel in Canmore around 9:30pm and it was quite dark already due to the storms coming in, so we weren't able to see much of the town, and besides, we were quite tired and glad to be in one place for the night. I got on the hotels wireless access and did some work for the office and posted a couple of over due blog posts before turning in at 2:30am! So much for going to bed early!

Our plans, as I've mentioned before, were to stay on our Ontario time schedules, which would have meant we would be up by 4 or 5am each morning and in bed by 8pm...sadly that has not been the case and we are finding that we are up all hours and sleeping in disgustingly late!!

- Paula

Friday, July 3, 2009

Anxious to see Lake Louise...

July 3, 2009

We made a concerted effort to get up early this morning so we could be at Lake Louise before the throngs of tourists…

We were up (some of us under protest) at 6:30am, had bacon & eggs for breakfast and were on the road by 7:30am. Darryl drove all day today as I was very, VERY tired – not sure if it’s all the fresh mountain air or the fact that I’m only getting 5-6 hrs sleep each night or that I haven’t taken my thyroid medication in a week or perhaps a combination of all three?!

We arrived at Lake Louise around 8:30am and it was already PACKED with tourists. It is a stunning spot – there’s no arguing that. There were lots of critters – very friendly critters – around too. Darryl no sooner sat down on a bench overlooking the lake and had a chipmunk up on his backpack…which was still on his back!


Lots of Clarks Nutcrackers looking for handouts. Landing on car roofs as people parked and proclaiming loudly “FEED ME!!” Had we known how common, and how annoying, they are here, we wouldn’t have been so excited about getting photos of them a few days ago!

Lake Louise got too crowded, too fast, so we left and made our way to nearby Moraine Lake and we were much happier there – although not as big as Lake Louise and lacking the impressive chalet hotel on the bank, it is no less spectacular and in fact, we much preferred it. There were fewer tourists and a lovely café over looking the water where we had a morning snack in the company of a very forward Clarks Nutcracker before leaving for our next destination.


We detoured through the town of Lake Louise and didn’t find much there – we stopped at a strip mall and went through the Bow River Trading Company and a Candy Shoppe then made tracks for the Icefields Parkway.

Our first stop was Herbert Lake, which was right beside the highway and a good introduction for us to the emerald green glacier lakes in Banff Park – we stopped at several over the course of the day, each one seemingly more spectacular than the last.


At 12:30pm, we stopped at Bow Lake and saw our first glacier, the Crow Foot Glacier – even from a great distance, you can appreciate how massive they are. A short way down the parkway brought us to the Bow Glacier and then Waterfowl Lake.

Peyto Lake was a bit of a hike for us, 1000 ft uphill, but it too, was worth the effort although the viewing platform was overflowing with people and getting a clear shot of the lake for a panorama was difficult to say the least.

Darryl took up the challenge of the hike to Mistaya Canyon while I took a siesta in the sun in the car as my knee isn’t holding up to all the walking that well and after the hike in and out of Peyto Lake, I needed a rest. 45 minutes later a very sweaty Darryl returned to inform me that I should be glad I didn’t go with him as he even found the hike difficult, but worth it. He informed me that there is quite a canyon formed by the Mistaya River in addition to the lake and he took some spectacular photos. The mist from the fast flowing falls created a rainbow just above the rocks when the sun is shining just right. The other nice thing about that is that he has photos of something I don’t – so that makes it a little more special for him too.

Darryl was disappointed that we didn’t see any animals on our trip today – with the exception of the chipmunk and various birds. He was desperately hoping to see a moose, but would have settled for an elk, bear, or even a deer, but alas, likely due to the heat or perhaps that most animals have young now, none were down near the roads or glacial lakes.


At 3:30pm, we turned around to head back for Golden at Rampart Creek just north of Saskatchewan Crossing. We hustled it back as we had Very Important Dinner Plans with Aunt Helen. We had arranged to go out for supper at the Golden Rim Inn in hopes of watching mountain sheep from the windows while we dined. Well, there were no sheep, but the view made up for it and the food was excellent (and far too much!!).

After dinner, I also found a place on the main street of Golden where I can hop on a wireless internet connection to do the office work I haven’t been able to do the last couple of days, however, we are scheduled to leave Golden tomorrow and make our way to Canmore for Saturday night where we are supposed to have free high-speed internet in our hotel room, so I’ll play catch up there. I heard from a little bird that Lori got the new listings up on the website today, which helps me out a great deal. I still have some work to do, but it’s at least well started!

My mom reports from home that there is a chance of a half-nice day tomorrow. She must be ecstatic. I hadn’t had any news from her since yesterday morning, so I sent her an email asking if no news was good news or if perhaps she had built an ark and drifted off with the dogs and cats in search of higher ground. She has had to put up with rain solid since we left, which I know she didn’t sign up for when she agreed to house/dog/cat sit for us. I hope she gets some nice weather to enjoy the gazebo and the lounge chair!! She seems to be taking a real shine to Toby, which shouldn’t surprise me. Anyone who spends any length of time with him falls head over heels in love with him and his nutty antics.

- Paula

Thursday, July 2, 2009

Golden Days - Day 1


We woke this morning to the smell of fresh-brewed coffee at 7am and after a quick bowl of cereal, Darryl, Aunt Helen and I were off to ``the mountain”.


Aunt Helen really enjoys taking people up the mountain to show off the incredible view and the resident grizzly bear, Boo.


At 9am, we headed up the winding mountain road to Kicking Horse Mountain Resort, which is a fairly new ski resort that also has a thriving summer clientele who come to see “Boo” at the Kicking Horse Bear Refuge or to ride the gondola to the top of the mountain for the views and the dining at the Eagle's Eye Restaurant.


Riding up to see the bear, you take an open chair lift, which Aunt Helen wasn’t feeling quite up to, so Darryl and I left her in the café at the bottom of the hill while we took the chair lift up the hill.
We had been told that the best time to see the bear is in the morning when he is most active, and he did not disappoint!


After the 1 hour guided info session about, and with, the bear, we took the chair lift back down the mountain and met up with Aunt Helen who joined us in the gondola ride to the very top of the mountain for breath-taking vistas and lunch at the Eagle's Eye restaurant.


Lunch was excellent and surpassed only by the view and the company. Although Aunt Helen claims to be getting a little forgetful, she certainly remembers a great deal and has a lot of really wonderful stories to share about the area and about our family. She is obviously very proud of her children and grand children – and the area in which they live.


She mentioned to us on the gondola ride up that she used to plant trees for the forestry 30 years ago and pointed out the mountains where she did that.

After lunch, we made our way back down the gondola, which is about a 20 minute ride, watching mountain bikers take to the hill (full body armour is a requirement!). It must be a thrill for them, but it sure looked terrifying to me!


We dropped Aunt Helen off at home and Darryl and I left for Yoho National Park for the afternoon where we searched in vain for a moose (Darryl wants to see one before the end of our trip and zoo’s don’t count!).
Our stops included a place called “Natural Bridge”, Emerald Lake & Takakkaw Falls (the highest falls in Canada, I think?) and then a quick stop in the cute village of Field in the park for a new park pass and finally back here for dinner, but before we arrived back, just outside of Golden, we were treated to a close encounter with a battle worn big horn sheep on the side of the transcanada who cared little of cars and people with big cameras while he made himself comfortable for a little late day sun bathing.


Dinner and a cold beer later and I’m nearly ready to call it a night. I had planned to go to bed early tonite as we have another big day on the road planned for tomorrow, but here it is 1:19am and I’m still typing away like an idiot (according to Darryl, at least), but I did take a break for a hour to flip through some old photo albums Aunt Helen dug out. I was delighted to see photos of my dad as a young boy – the youngest I have seen of him, I think!

Until tomorrow…

- Paula

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Leaving Invermere for Golden

Up and at ‘em early this morning – earliest start for us yet. I think we were both up, dressed & down for the continental breakfast before 7am and we were on the road shortly after 7:30am. Good thing too – as what would have been an hour and forty five minute trip driving straight through, took us 8 with detours and stops for wildlife spottings!

Today was my turn to drive and my knee is starting to give me a lot of grief earlier and earlier in the days now as it’s not getting any rest between either driving or walking every day. Oh well, it can rest when I get home. As long as I can keep moving for the next week or so!

At 8am we were driving along side the Columbia River Valley – which we were beside off and on most of our drive throughout the day – what an incredible sight it was in the rising sun this morning. Vast and lush with colour in front of the mountain backdrop.

By 8:30, we were in the town of Radium, waiting for the local info centre to open so we could buy our pass to get into Kootenay National Park, where we were planning a stop at Radium Hot Springs. The info centre didn’t open until 9, so we wandered off to see if we could find a road down into the valley for a better view of the Columbia valley. We found a service road that led to a lumber yard and train tracks and followed it for some time. We saw white tailed deer, a hawk we weren’t able to ID as it was in the shadows of a trees some distance away and a snake that Darryl startled when he stepped out of the car on one of our stops.

At 10:15am, we entered Kootenay National Park and passed through an immense and impressive rock cut right away, which we had to stop and take lots of photos of, of course.


From there, we stopped at the Radium Hot Springs Pools and wandered the grounds there for a while taking photos. It looks much as a last remembered it, except that when I was there 23 years ago, there were no fences on the steep hill above the hot pools and that is where we saw goats and snow (it was March last time I was here). We didn’t take the time to go for a dip in the pools, kinda wish we had, but another time, We were anxious to get further into the park and hoped to spot all manner of wildlife.

At 11:30am we came to Olive Lake – I’m not sure how it got it’s name, but I suspect it might have something to do with it’s colour. In the early morning light, the water was crystal clear and the palest green colour. It was stunning. We walked around the lake and took photos for a while, reading warnings of recent bear sightings in the area with a mix of fear and excitement, but we didn’t see any.


We stopped for lunch, such as it was (Doritos and coke) on the banks of the Columbia River. As we were leaving the car to walk around the rest area on the banks of the river, Darryl and I were discussing the prospects for lunch, and he asked me “Did you lock it?” (referring to the car), and I, thinking we were still talking about lunch, replied “We don’t have any chocolate.” I’m going to blame it on low blood sugar, but Darryl says I need to get my ears checked again. It was an honest mistake – when you’re hungry “lock it” could conceivably sound like “chocolate”, right?? We had a pretty good chuckle over that.

I dipped my toes in the Columbia River and immediately pulled them back out – it was as bitterly cold as it was beautiful in icy blue tones.


We continued on our way deeper into the park, spotting the occasional white tail deer in the brush along the roadside. Ahead, we could see several cars pulled off the road and Darryl told me to slow down and stop – it was a sure sign that there was something happening – and wouldn’t you know it, he was right! There were 2 black bears grazing on the side of the road!


At 1pm we turned around at Kootney Crossing – our plans for today were only to take the road into the park halfway – later this week we will travel the other half coming from the other side.

As soon as we had cell service, we called my Aunt Helen to let her know we were on our way and we headed back through Radium and turned north to make our way to Golden.

En route, my mom had asked me to make a couple of stops for her, which I would have made on my own anyways. I have 2 uncles buried in a cemetery near Briscoe. One I never met; my Uncle Ken, who passed away long before I was born, and my Uncle Vern, who passed away in 2001.

We had been told that the cemetery was south of Briscoe and that if we got to Briscoe, we had gone too far, so we drove up to Briscoe without seeing the log cabin church and cemetery. So we back-tracked and drove the stretch again, detouring down several side roads in case it might be down there…no luck. Finally, Darryl told me to stop at the Briscoe general store and ask for directions. As he went in, his cell phone rang, it was my Aunt Helen calling! While I talked to her and got directions, Darryl went into the store and asked the clerk, and an elderly patron who asked him who we were looking for at the cemetery, where it was, Darryl told him “My wife’s Uncle, Vern Bryant,” and he said “I knew Vern!”; small world, huh?!

At 1:30pm, we finally found the cemetery and the graves of my two uncles. It was hard to find even with the correct directions – the driveway is very overgrown and steep down before a long gentle slope up to the century old log church at the crest of a gentle sloping hill.




At 3:30pm, we made it into Spillemacheen, where my Aunt Helen & Uncle Vern used to live. They had a farm there where my uncle had cattle and he also led guided big game hunts in the mountains. We found their old house and took some photos of it and the mountain in the “back yard” with the bear cave near the top. Of course, it’s not actually a bear cave, but that’s what I called it when I was little and visited with them on a previous trip.

We took a road nearby for a detour and found ourselves in Bugaboo Conservation Area, which was a pleasant surprise. There were many, many areas where we hoped to spot moose, but saw nothing but sparrows, ducks, kingbirds and finally a pair of osprey although they just passed through and landed in trees too far for us to take photos.

We left Spillemacheen and continued north going through various small towns along the way, always with the Columbia River Valley on our left side. In Herrogate, we started spotting what was to be the first of many, many nesting osprey – so many so that eventually we stopped stopping to take photos of them and just pointed them out to each other and carried on. Although there was one we did stop and take photos of as the light was excellent and it was close to the road.


A couple of small falcons or kestrels rounded out the days wildlife sightings.

We arrived in Golden at 5:30pm and Aunt Helen and her friend Karen had a wonderful roast beef and corn on the cob supper ready for us. The four of us sat down to supper and a nice long chat to catch up as I haven’t seen my Aunt since we got married.

Dinner was wonderful and relaxing with excellent company. We stayed up far too late chatting, catching up and looking at photos from the day and got to bed for the night far too late.